In school, we had a very big chunk of the history book on the Mughal Empire, and we were made to submit a project on it. I didn’t understand what was so attractive about the Mughals, but I absolutely loved studying Mughal history. Perhaps because we were only given the glorious bits of their invasions and just a tiny bit of their gory behaviour, iykwim. If it weren’t for having to memorise dates and write exams, I would have been a social science buff today haha! But then again, my love for Indian history began with that history class in school, which further led to my admiration for Indian architecture, monuments built by the Mughals.
Although I set out to visit the temples of South India that were taught in school, this part of history, about the Mughals in the Southern parts of India was almost non-existent in my mind. I’ve seen much of it in the northern parts of India, but what a lovely idea to visit and learn about them in the South, from their ancient monuments and sites.
I mentioned my plan to see the temples of South India in my first post
The plan was to head to Golconda Fort, the most popular hangout for locals and tourists, but we realised the Qutub Shahi Gardens was also on the way. And we were so glad we stopped. I think most people head straight to the Fort, but this is a beautiful place worth exploring and for resting.
The Qutub Shahi Heritage Park is essentially a large tomb garden of the members of the Qutub Shahi dynasty rulers. The Aga Khan Trust for Culture, in partnership with the state government have done a phenomenal work in restoring the mausoleums and maintaining the beautiful park.
The exquisite-looking turquoise-domed tomb was under restoration but even through the scaffolds and dust, I could see how pretty it was- belonging to Sultan Muhammad Qutb Shah, the nephew and son-in-law of Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah, the founder of Hyderabad. Sultan Qutub Shah was married to Hayat Begum (whose name I found out later means ‘giver of life’). Her mausoleum is equally large, so is the intricately designed masjid in her name within the precinct. The garden has other tombs dedicated to various other people who weren’t rulers too, but contrary to the fact about how Mughal rulers were unjust to women during those days, it was kind of refreshing to see such regard and respect for some women in the past here– the wife Hayat Begum, Fatima Sultana a sister, two beloved courtesans Premamati & Taramati (their names sound more Hindu, so does Bhagwati, Muhammad Qutub Shah’s wife!).
The heritage park is also called the seven tombs park, for the seven main rulers’ tombs, but the Deccan park right beside the Qutub Shahi garden reminded me of the parks in London. An equally well-maintained park where families came to play and relax. And after almost two hours or more of walking around tombs, I took a quick nap under the shade of a tree near a stepwell, dozing while watching a squirrel run up and down.
It was already late afternoon, but we didn’t head back afterwards.
We went somewhere else instead. Where? In the next post 😉
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